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Arches National Park, Utah

Our love is dead but without limit, like the surface of the moon, or the land between here and the mountains

If one single state, one single park, one single trail or one single place drove this entire trip, it would be the Delicate Arch Trail at Arches National Park in southeastern Utah. For years and years (and years) I had wanted to see this single place but always found reasons not to go. Moab isn't in the most conveniently located place (a long drive from Denver and an even longer drive from Salt Lake City or Las Vegas) and grueling summer temperatures make the supposedly long, difficult walk to the arch even more difficult. Like most things it always seemed easier not to go than to go. Over and over (and over) again I'd wait just a little longer and decide instead do it next fall, next spring or the year after that, or the year after that.

All that changed (at least with respect to Moab) last year in Alaska (WARNING- generally pointless, unrelated story about to start). When I first picked up my unlucky rental car that midnight in Anchorage I came to realize that its radio had no direct iPod cable connection and that local radio was, well, sadly unlistenable. On my way out of town on the long road to Homer I decided to stop at the city's only mall to find a local record store, realizing that a reasonably good CD or two might make the long road feel somehow less long. After finding no local CD/record store I settled on Alaska's only Best Buy and picked up three CDs including an older one from Bright Eyes (one of my favorite bands) called Lifted. As I listened (and listened) to the CD I started to obsess on a few songs including one called "Make War" whose first line is "our love is dead but without limit, like the surface of the moon, or the land between here and the mountain," with a real emphasis on the word "here." As I sang along over (and over) again it started to remind me of the desert and (for whatever reason) the idea of Delicate Arch, an image I had only seen in books, on the National Geographic Channel and on those damn Utah license plates that seemed to always mock me for not yet bothering to see it in person. I had also waited a long time to visit Alaska, maybe ten years, maybe even more, always thinking about going but then always deciding against it for all the same reasons. In many ways this trip across the American southwest is similar, I had been thinking about both trips for a long time, both cover many places I had never really been and both were not necessarily easy. So last year, after driving hundreds and hundreds of miles in Alaska, somewhere on the George Parks Highway, somewhere near the untaken road to Talkeetna, I distinctly remember hearing that song again and deciding once and for all that this spring things would change, that I had waited long enough and would finally make driving thousands and thousands of miles across the desert to get my ass to Delicate Arch a priority. Of course other plans interfered and turned spring into summer, but at least I still managed to make it this year.

I had high hopes for the arch and high fears of the trail, described in book after book as horribly strenuous (it's really not), horribly busy (it really is) and horribly exposed to the hot and deadly desert sun (a trait shared with virtually all southwestern national park trails). I'm certainly not saying that the trail was easy- my second day at a high elevation coupled with my general sad, sorry shape right now made me certainly feel the elevation gain, but the footing was fine, the trail well marked and the one sustained steep section (see first photo) was difficult but manageable. After that the short but hard mile and a half trail hugged the side of a steep cliff (see second photo) before finally, dramatically ending up in the place I'd been trying so hard to finally see.

Part of the magic of Delicate Arch is how you approach it, how it dramatically comes into full view as the trail clears a nearby rock formation. Another is its site- an amazing, natural amphitheater with distant snow covered mountains in the (far) background. Yet another is the arch itself, a mammoth, carved piece of stone with those wonderfully asymmetrical legs. Also it just looks cool.

For scale reference, note the two people standing directly underneath the arch, a terrific experience with the sole exception that it's the only place in the whole amphitheater where you actually can't see or appreciate that arch that you walked so far to actually see in the first place.

This gives you a slightly better understanding of the arch (all distorted and all close up) and how it relates to that natural amphitheater it is forever joined with. The trail approaches from the right but stays behind those rocks right up until its big reveal.

One last picture, the close up glamour shot with the mountains in the background and that big bad solitary arch acting just like the star it has always has been.

Coming up next: If there weren’t more arches at Arches, they would have probably just called the place Arch to begin with