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Birmingham, England

With the boys from the Mersey and the Thames and the Tyne

The most interesting looking building in Birmingham and easily the most interesting looking department store ever built just has to be the Selfridges at the Bull Ring. Designed by Future Systems, it is a big, blobby mass of a building with a few well placed windows and a skin of shiny discs that stretch out in every direction. The result is a building (or maybe "mass" is a better word) that is most certainly eye catching and most certainly hard to forget. Whether it's from the drabness of the retail buildings that surround it at the Bull Ring or from the skybridge that connects it to the car park (where the window placement almost starts to resemble a friendly alien cyclops), the generally scaleless mass (or maybe "building" is a better word) grabs your attention and makes that railway trip all the way from York seem like it was worth it after all.

The sixth major Daniel Libeskind building that I have ever visited (after Berlin, Toronto, Denver, San Francisco and Covington), the Imperial War Museum North architecturally uses the same language despite a comparably radically different (and not quite as angled) form. A giant fractured dome (with for some reason an uncomfortably pitched floor) holds the bulk of the museum while a see through observation tower marks the entrance and generally looks good as you approach the building. The tower has a skin which is not quite closed and an interior structure which (except for a concrete elevator shaft) is completely open. The effect from the outside as you walk around is fun- light sometimes pokes through the tower revealing little hints of the structure as you approach the building. Additionally the inside of the tower is fun- everything from looking up through the open structure to looking down through the open metal grate top deck gives you a great sense of the form and of being suspended at such great heights. What isn't as much fun is the view out. The same rules that allow the tower's skin to be open and its floor to be see through also apparently prevent an actual open observation window to look out of the damn thing from the top. A slightly cropped and blocked opening does point toward the north and downtown, while 350 degrees of an otherwise spectacular 360 degree view remains blocked. This observation tower finally answers the age old question of what would it be like if you built an observation tower with no windows at the top, a question that probably never needed answering in the first place.

Meanwhile the free museum inside is certainly interesting but not nearly as imperial as I'd hoped. It covers Britain from World War I onwards, focusing on the human and everyday costs and less on strategy or weapons. So if you want to learn what it was like in London during World War I this is the place, but if you want to learn about life on the front lines you'd best go someplace else.

If the words Old Trafford mean anything to you, then chances are these photos will mean even more. If not, well, there's always more slides on the next page to look forward to.

For any North American residents, Old Trafford is the home stadium for Manchester United, easily the most successful sports team in the world (take that everyone else). The stadium contains a well stocked (and quite busy) museum of trophies and offers a quite popular behind the scenes tour that I was lucky enough to attend. The standard 90 minute tour starts in the stands, goes through the surprisingly low key (and almost dumpy) players' lounge, stops in the surprisingly small players' changing room, passes through the players' tunnel and takes you down to field level where under no circumstances are you allowed to walk on or even touch the pitch. And while my all too short schedule did not allow me to see a game, visiting Old Trafford made me want to start planning now to see a game, to stand in the Stretford End, to watch Manchester United take to the pitch, to listen to 76,000 people sing songs in painfully thick Manchester accents that I will never understand, to see- as so many have before me and so many will after- Old Trafford in all its glory.

Coming up next: Anarchy smiles in the royal mile