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Hamburg, Germany
You could run, you could hide, you could leave, you could stay, nothing's gonna save you from the tidal wave
Parts of this trip mirror parts of a far more epic trip back in 2006, one that included Rotterdam, Cologne, Hamburg and Berlin, but also included a World Cup game and a visit to Russia on an (almost) month long trek. On that previous trip eleven years ago, I said of Hamburg “nothing to see here, move along, move along,” yet now, all these years later, Hamburg was not just a highlight of my trip but also really the driving force behind it. What could have possibly changed that would make Hamburg of all places suddenly the place to be?
This. This building could do that. This is the Elbphilharmonie in Hafen City, a spectacular building outside and inside and one that needs to be seen to be believed.
The Elbphilharmonie is a concert hall on the water in Hamburg designed by Herzog and de Meuron. It is an addition and adaptive reuse of an existing brick warehouse building, with two large concert halls, residential units, a hotel (that you just know I had to stay at), a parking garage in the solid brick part and a public plaza with a wraparound balcony in the gap between the brick base and glass top. It also was legendarily difficult to build- it took seven years longer than it was supposed to and the final cost (which was expensive to begin with) came in at around four times higher than expected. It is also immensely popular, with timed tickets required just to go up and visit the plaza.
As a guest of the Westin Hotel inside the Elbphilharmonie, I could come and go to the plaza whenever I wanted. Still, I reserved three separate free timed entry passes to visit just so I could experience this, the main public way in and up to the plaza level. It consists of two large escalators, and the first one is unlike any other. It is the world’s first arc escalator, which lifts you up along a reasonably gentle curve and feels totally crazy and awesome and unnecessary for the whole time you’re on it. And, when you think of it, things like the world’s first arc escalator might just start to explain why the final cost (which was expensive to begin with) came in at around four times higher than expected after all.
Once you ride those expensive escalators and get to the plaza, this is what you’re going to see. The two staircases on both sides lead up to the concert halls, which regrettably I could not get in. The schedule worked against me for both tours and performances, and even if it didn’t, everything was sold out far in advance for its entire premiere year. Still it does create a solid reason to think that one day I’ll be back in Hamburg and back in the Elbphilharmonie, sitting in a concert hall pretending to enjoy the concert just so I can finally see the hall.
I did a few other things in Hamburg, including a tour boat ride of the harbor and a self guided walking tour, but honestly the reason I was there was all about the Elbphilharmonie. I spent a lot of time on the public plaza and wrap around balcony, where the views and reflections made each trip back to the plaza feel worth it, even as I found myself taking pretty much the same picture over and over and over again.
